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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.