Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
